
Baltic states
Once the largest country in Europe, today the least predictable of the Baltic three.
This is Lithuania
Lithuania is often mentioned in the same breath as Estonia and Latvia, as if the Baltic states were one experience sampled in three bites. Anyone who actually goes soon finds that's not true. Vilnius has no crisp Hanseatic facades but a lavish baroque old town, with church towers that bring Kraków or Vienna to mind sooner than Tallinn. Lithuanian itself isn't a Finno-Ugric language like Estonian, but the oldest living Indo-European language in Europe, a linguistic fossil that has fascinated linguists for over a century.
The country was once anything but small. As the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, it stretched in the fifteenth century from the Baltic Sea to the Black Sea, at the time the largest realm in Europe. That history leaves its traces: in the architecture of Vilnius, in the fortress town of Trakai on its island in the lake, and in a self-assurance you wouldn't immediately expect from a country of three million people.
Beyond the cities the country falls quiet. More than two thousand lakes, sweeping forests home to storks and elk, and on the coast a peninsula of walking sand dunes that has no equal in Europe.
The regions
Lithuania is small enough to cross in a few days, and varied enough that you won't want to.

The largest baroque old town in Northern Europe, Unesco-listed and built by Italian architects for the Lithuanian nobility. Narrow streets, hidden courtyards, and the self-declared artists' republic of Užupis, which once wrote its own constitution on the wall.

Half an hour from Vilnius stands the red-brick castle of Trakai, built on an island in the lake. The Karaite community that settled here centuries ago still cooks its own cuisine beside the water.

Ninety-eight kilometres of walking dune between the Baltic Sea and the Curonian Lagoon, with fishing villages like Nida that lived off wooden boats until recently. The highest dune, Parnidis, still shifts a little further every year.

Lithuania's second city briefly served as capital between the wars, and in those twenty years built up a collection of art deco buildings that has since gained Unesco recognition. Less polished than Vilnius, and more honest for it.

In the north-west, near Šiauliai, stands a hill holding an estimated hundred thousand crosses, left behind by generations of pilgrims since the nineteenth century. Beyond it stretches the national park of the same name, with lakes, forests and wooden villages that have changed little.

People and faith
Until 1387, Lithuania was the last pagan country in Europe, and that history has never fully disappeared. Old rituals around sun, fire and the oak live on in festivals such as Rasos, the midsummer celebration where people spend the whole night searching for the fern blossom that legend says brings luck.
Anyone visiting now notices a hospitality that never pushes itself forward. Lithuanians aren't quick to talk about themselves, but once you're invited to the table, you get their full attention, and probably a glass of home-made midus, the local honey wine.
Stillness and nature

A third of Lithuania is forest. In the Nemunas delta and the marshes of Žuvintas, herons, cranes and white-tailed eagles nest, often without another person in sight.

Lithuania has the highest density of white storks in the world: nearly thirty thousand breeding pairs. Every village seems to have its own nest on a chimney or power pole.

Aukštaitija in the north-east is a patchwork of lakes and pine forest, crossed by canoe routes that can run for days without meeting a road.
Verder kijken dan de highlights
It's not a copy of Tallinn or Riga. Vilnius's baroque skyline, the Lithuanian language, and a Catholic, once pagan past make this a culturally different story from its Finnish and German-influenced neighbours on the Baltic.
It was once a great power. See only the small capital and you miss that this country was for centuries one of the most powerful realms in Europe, with all the architecture and self-assurance that comes with it.
The nature is every bit as worthwhile as the cities. We don't just plan Vilnius and a day trip, we give the lake country and the coast equal weight. That's where the country sets itself apart the most.
The pace is slower than you'd expect. Lithuania is compact, but we don't rush anyone from highlight to highlight. An unplanned afternoon by a lake belongs on the itinerary just as much.
What's on offer
These aren't days we fill in for you. They're the possibilities we draw on, together with you, to build a route that fits.

A cycle path follows almost the entire Curonian Spit, past forest, dune and lagoon, with Nida and Juodkrantė as resting points.

Multi-day canoe trips between campsites and wooden villages, with no sound but the water.

From the baroque Church of St Peter and St Paul to the artists' republic of Užupis, a city best discovered on foot.

One of the country's most striking, quietest places, best experienced early in the day, before the first coaches arrive.

Cepelinai (potato dumplings), cold beetroot soup šaltibarščiai, and home-made midus: simple fare that holds its own surprisingly well against more refined neighbours.
What we put together for you depends on what you're after: stillness, architecture, or both.
Wanneer reis je?
Lithuania has four distinct seasons. May and June are ideal for the lake country: long daylight, not too many mosquitoes yet, and nature at its greenest. July and August draw the most visitors to the coast, when the Baltic Sea finally warms up to something bearable.
September is a quiet favourite: calmer than summer, with the forests turning to mushroom season. Winter is harsh and dark, but anyone who loves snow finds a lit-up Christmas market in Vilnius and a frozen scene in Trakai.
Goed om te weten
A few things that make travelling easier.

The Curonian Spit, where the dune still shifts a little further each year.
No imitation of its neighbours.
A country with a history, language and rhythm all its own.
Or perhaps this
Still weighing it up? That is no problem at all. The right country often only becomes clear once the conversation starts.

Forest and marsh stretch to the horizon, a digital capital, and a stillness that feels further north than the map suggests.

Woodlands, coastal dunes and an architecture that refuses a single style, in a country that quietly goes its own way.

A country where desert, mountains and coast merge within a few hours' drive, and the cities hold their own just as well.

The next step
Tell us whether you're more of a lake traveller, a city person who loves baroque facades, or someone after the coast and the dunes. We'll map out a route to match.