
Southeast Asian archipelago
So varied that one trip could never be called 'Indonesia'.
This is Indonesia
Thousands of islands, no two alike, an archipelago that reaches far beyond the Bali most people know. Java's volcanoes smoke above centuries-old temples, in Sulawesi the Toraja still bury their dead by rules no one imposed on them, and between Flores and Papua stretches a sea you could sail for days without seeing the same coastline twice.
Treat 'Indonesia' as a single destination and you miss the point. We prefer to think in regions: which part of this country suits the traveller's pace, interests and curiosity. Sometimes that means one island, thoroughly. Rarely does it mean the whole country.
People and languages
In a Javanese kraton, gamelan music still plays daily and batik is still drawn by hand, a court culture centuries older than the country later drawn around it. By Lake Toba, the Batak live by their own marriage and funeral traditions, while the Minangkabau in the highlands of West Sumatra form one of the largest matrilineal societies in the world, where property and family name pass down through the mother's line.
'Bhinneka Tunggal Ika', unity in diversity, sits on the national emblem for good reason. It is not a marketing slogan. It is a precise description of a country where Muslim, Hindu, Christian and animist beliefs exist side by side, and where the distance between two islands is often a cultural border too.
The islands
Each island has its own rhythm, faith and landscape. A selection of where we see the difference most clearly.

Borobudur and Prambanan at first light, before the coaches arrive. Further on, the blue sulphur flames of Kawah Ijen, climbed in the dead of night, and the walk along the rim of the Bromo crater at sunrise.

Lake Toba, formed by one of the largest volcanic eruptions in history, lies calmly among the hills. Around Bukit Lawang, wild orangutans still live in the rainforest, and the Gayo highlands grow some of the world's finest arabica coffee.

In Tana Toraja, funerals can last for days, and ancestors are kept at home for years until the right farewell arrives. Underwater, at Bunaken and Wakatobi, lies one of the richest coral areas on earth.

The three crater lakes of Kelimutu change colour, turquoise, brown, black, and no one quite knows why. Wooden boats sail from Labuan Bajo to Komodo National Park, home to the last wild Komodo dragons.

Off the coast of Papua lie hundreds of limestone islets in waters regarded as the heart of the planet's marine biodiversity. Mass tourism has barely arrived. Distance keeps it that way.

Away from the south coast lies a different Bali: the terraced fields of Jatiluwih and Sidemen, temple ceremonies in villages tourists rarely reach, and mountain villages around Batur where the mornings still cool down.

Borobudur, shortly after sunrise, before the temple square fills with cameras again.
Volcanoes, rainforest and reef

More than a hundred and fifty active volcanoes cross the country, from Bromo to Rinjani on Lombok. A night climb before sunrise belongs to Java the way a morning market belongs to a city.

Gunung Leuser National Park on Sumatra holds one of the last populations of wild orangutans, alongside elephants and, increasingly rare, Sumatran tigers.

The Coral Triangle, with Raja Ampat and Wakatobi at its heart, holds more species of coral and reef fish than anywhere else on earth. For divers, this is another planet, without needing to travel far from the coast.
Verder kijken dan de highlights
Distance is the norm, not the exception. Sumatra and Papua lie some five thousand kilometres apart, further than London to Baghdad. Getting around here takes time, even though the map makes it look like one country.
One region thoroughly beats five superficially. Try to combine Java, Bali, Flores and Sulawesi in two weeks and you'll spend most of your time in airports. We'd rather help you choose, and do it with attention.
Every region calls for a different local eye. A guide who knows Java does not know Toraja, and the reverse holds too. We work region by region with people who live there, not with a single contact for the whole country.
The place sets the pace of the trip. A market in Yogyakarta asks for patience, a journey to Raja Ampat asks for surrender to boats and tides. We plan around that rhythm, not over it.
What you can do here
A few of the shapes a trip through Indonesia can take, depending on what you're looking for.

From the soft corals of Raja Ampat to the manta rays of Nusa Penida, with a local dive school that knows the currents and the seasons.

Bromo, Ijen or Rinjani: a night-time start, a local guide who knows the route and the safety concerns, and a view that's never quite the same by day.

Joining a farmer in Jatiluwih or Sidemen, watching the 'subak' irrigation system work the way it has for centuries. No demonstration, just a working day.

Through a local contact, with due respect for what can and cannot be visited. Funeral rituals are not an attraction, even when you are occasionally invited to attend.

By boat past Dayak settlements along the Mahakam river, where the rainforest still reaches all the way to the water's edge.
None of these are day trips off a list. They are starting points for a conversation about what you're looking for.


Between sulphur-blue light at four in the morning and the green of a rice terrace at sunrise lies an entire country.
Goed om te weten
A few things that make the trip easier, in short.
Wanneer reis je?
The dry season, roughly April to October, applies to most of the archipelago. Java, Bali, Sumatra, Sulawesi and Flores follow this pattern fairly closely. Travel outside that period is certainly possible, but expect more showers and higher humidity, especially in the west of the country.
Indonesia cannot be summed up in ten days.
We help you choose which part you will actually get to know.
Or perhaps this
Still weighing it up? That is no problem at all. The right country often only becomes clear once the conversation starts.

Lakes, forests and a baroque old town that feels surprisingly southern for a Baltic capital.

A fjord that is not really a fjord, mountains that fall straight into the sea, and a country smaller than its landscape suggests.

A country with more landscape than its history suggests, with forests, lakes and towns each rebuilt with real character.

The next step
Tell us whether you're drawn to the volcanoes of Java, want to dive at Raja Ampat, or are after the stillness of a rice terrace at first light. We work out what that looks like for you.